fandomsecrets | [ SECRET POST #3149 ]

[ SECRET POST #3149 ]

⌈ Secret Post #3149 ⌋

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I've decided that once I have a job and know where I'm living, I want to get a cat. For cat owners here, what are the things I need to think of before I get one? And how much money should I have saved up for in order to pay for beginning things?

My plan is to get a cat, not a kitten, from a shelter, so things like shots should be already taken care of.

Cats need annual shots, jsyk.

I'm sure other people will be here with all the big things to think on, so I'll just say be prepared to spend a lot of time with a tape roller. Cat hair gets everywhere, even with shorthairs.

Whenever I've had to get veterinary care for my cats, it's incredibly expensive. Something to note.

Litter box + litter. The clumping kind of litter is my favorite; far easier to clean.

Food and water bowls + something to put them on (like a placemat)

Food. I'm sure people will be up in arms about this, but I've never bothered with very fancy cat food. Some Meow Mix or whatever is fine. Get a small bag. They'll like it or they won't. If they don't like it, try something else.

Maybe a couple toys. You never know what a cat will like. Something for them to scratch is a good idea.

A collar and tag.

Maybe a brush, if you're getting a longhaired variety. Domestic shorthairs, aka your regular ol' housecat, don't need to be brushed.

Plan for a checkup from the vet when you first get the kitty, and then for annual shots/exam.

Awesome, good for you for adopting from a shelter!! :D And an adult cat too, that is so great.

The cat will have shots and SHOULD be neutered, but will still need shots annually... though if you are keeping the cat strictly indoors, it's more of a recommendation rather than an absolute necessity. Still, annual vet check-ups are definitely a think you should do.

It's important to have a little emergency vet money saved up, but emergencies can be hard to plan for. If you're the type to always keep a little money aside for a rainy day, you're good.

I can't recommend enough getting PROPER cat food. Always look at the ingredients list - at very least, the first two ingredients should be actual meat. No corn, no rice, no vegetables, etc - cats are carnivores, and a lot of the generic brand stuff would hope you don't know that. I personally buy more expensive food that's 90% meat (Origin, I believe is the brand) but that's only sold at specialty shops, and again, a little expensive. If you look through the aisles at a department store and check the ingredients of each one, you should be able to find something that has the first two ingredients as meat. Supplementing with wet food isn't a bad idea either, wet food is generally better for cats anyway (but again, some wet foods are total crap).

Adult cats shouldn't be too hard, though. The cat will probably be really nervous for the first few days and quite possibly hide somewhere - think in advance if there are any rooms you don't want the cat to be in, and keep those doors closed.

That's funny because someone above said food doesn't matter. But I think I agree with you considering cats are carnivors. Although, my roommate's cat, before she died, refused to eat anything but Purina. Didn't matter the flavor, but it had to be Purina. So it is probably a good idea to test things out and see what the cat likes.

Cats can definitely have preferences, but then again, so do humans, and those preferences aren't always what is best for us! I noticed the above anon said Meow Mix. Awhile ago I actually went and checked a bunch of labels just out of curiosity, and Meow Mix was like, the worst one. Total sawdust food.

For what it's worth, a good method for switching cat foods is to combine the one they like with the new cat food. Let them have it mixed for awhile, and slowly get rid of the old food.

Agreed. You can feed less of good food, and your cat will be healthier.

Our adult cat gets 1/4 cup (2 pz) dry food and 1/4 can wet food each morning, and that's it. (WEll, big bowl of fresh water daily of course.) She gobbles the wet, and nibbles on the dry the rest of the day.

+1 to all of this (from somebody who works with shelter cats).

Just spent two and a half thousand on fixing (as well as they could a broken leg) my new kitty up after she got out and played chicken with a car :( So... unless you believe in strictly keeping your cat inside and they won't escape, keep some rainy day funds aside.

* That's Australian dollars, sorry, but basically, a lot of money.

Pet insurance might be a good idea on this too. I know if I get a chance at having a cat again, I will seriously look at insurance for it.

Something I didn't see mentioned so far: dental care! It's as important for them as it is for us.

There's cat toothpaste and cat toothbrushes, and there are also solutions that you can mix in with their water (been using this stuff for a while; it was recommended by our vet, and it's worked really well). You can prevent a lot of health issues down the line by taking care of her/his teeth and gums, and contrary to what some people will tell you, dry food does not keep a cat's teeth clean.

Ignore the people that said food doesn't matter. Brand mostly doesn't matter, and your cat'll have their own preferences, but the best diet is a mix of wet (canned) and dry food. Dry alone puts them at risk for crystals in their kidneys, and that is a painful and expensive fix.

Hrmmmmm...had cats all my life, and love them to death. Like some have said - food *does* matter. Good food that is mostly animal protein (we use Taste of the Wild) means a healthier cat who not only eats less, but also poops less. Cheap cat food means lots of poop, because they have to eat so much to get adequate nutrition. It also absolutely reeks.

On wet food - some cats will eat it, some won't. Jack and Diana will eat it, but Jack doesn't like the 'fish' kind. Oliver will not touch and, in fact, reacts as if it were poison. He also reacts to all people food this way. He's a kibble-only cat.

Get stainless steel bowls. Plastic can become icky, and greasy, and cats who eat from plastic bowls tend to get 'cat acne' on their chins, from rubbing on the greasy plastic while they eat. If you can find inexpensive ones, get four, that way you can switch out the bowls once a week or so and wash one pair. (Obviously you can do that with just two bowls, but if you're kinda lazy, like me, it's easier to just switch and not have to immediately wash and dry.)

I've always just put some food - about two cups for our three cats - out in the bowl, and left it. They eat when they're hungry, otherwise they ignore it, and in a day or so, I put in a little more. I don't like it to sit out too much, otherwise it gets stale. I also don't really like the 'feed half a cup once a day' thing. I've never had a cat that 'binged', and if I can eat whenever I like, why not my cat? Unless your cat just swallows all the food until it pukes, there's no reason to restrict their ability to nibble a few bits of kibble now and then. That's what our cats do.

Unless the cat will go outside, don't bother with a collar. Most cats hate them, and they can be super-dangerous. Even if they *are* outside, make sure you get an elastic collar that will pull off if it gets hooked on something, because cats can and will strangle themselves on a collar, or get it caught on their hind paw.

Consider getting two cats. Unless you're home a lot, one cat alone (especially one used to other cats) gets bored and lonely, and might become destructive.

Toys are great. Catnip is great. Balled up paper wads and the ring off a milk jug are great. Cats? Are not picky. Definitely something to scratch, either a post or a cardboard box or *something*.

DO NOT DECLAW.

Make sure there's somewhere up high the cat can go to chill and hide. They like to be up high, surveying their domain. They also feel safer up high if there are guests or the terrifying vacuum.

My cats get fresh water about three times a day (I don't fill the bowl to the rim or anything) because cats are picky and rarely drink enough, and the fresher the better. Cats really like moving water, so they like to drink from the sink a lot. You might consider a kitty fountain. The more water they drink, the healthier. Cat's will actually dehydrate themselves by *not* drinking if they don't like the water/bowl/whatever. Silly creatures.

Definitely clumping cat litter, try to get the non-fragrance kind. I get the 'Tidy Cat' multiple cat kind. Almost dust-free, and no scent, which is big turn-off for my cats and for me, too. If you get two cats, get two litter boxes.

Enjoy! Take pictures! :)

Thanks this is great. The leaving them alone thing is actually why I'm going for a cat even though I eventually want a dog and a cat and like dogs slightly more. But until I can afford a daycare, it seems crueler to leave a dog alone. Cats seem to be able to entertain themselves, especially if they have plenty of toys.

The water thing is funny. My roommate's former cat would not drink out of a bowl. She would only drink out of the bubbler on the fish tank. We think it is because she was abandoned on the street for a long while before she was found, so she likes the running water which in the wild would be safer.

Yeah, i hate it when people are like 'oh, yeah, i got a dog, i work, he spends about 14 hours a day in his crate, he's fine!!'

Yeah, no. That's mean, boring, and pointless. Get a stuffed animal!

I really want to get a fountain for my cats, but just can't find one i like so far. But then, i haven't been looking *too* hard, heh.

My cats all love to drink out of the sink, either by 'biting' and lapping at the little stream of water, or sticking their paws in it and then licking their paws.

Re: Questions about getting a pet

philstar22 - 2015-08-19 02:55 (UTC) - Expand

Re: Questions about getting a pet

tabaqui - 2015-08-19 03:06 (UTC) - Expand

Re: Questions about getting a pet

philstar22 - 2015-08-19 03:10 (UTC) - Expand

Re: Questions about getting a pet

tabaqui - 2015-08-19 04:09 (UTC) - Expand

Re: Questions about getting a pet

comma_chameleon - 2015-08-19 11:05 (UTC) - Expand

Re: Questions about getting a pet

tabaqui - 2015-08-19 14:42 (UTC) - Expand

I don't think anyone has mentioned claw clipping yet; that's a job you'll have to do (or have a groomer do) for your and your cat's comfort. Ask your the rescue about the clippers they use, they'll know the easiest ones.

Definitely have an emergency vet savings. Rescue cats can have issues the rescues don't know about, especially if they haven't had the cat for long. If the cat has been fostered, they might not even know about things like worms (the foster family is supposed to take care of that, but they sometimes don't).

I've never clipped my cats' claws... they shorten them themselves. Scratching posts, etc.

Dogs on the other hand, unless they're very active, need clipping.

Keep it indoors. So many friends have lost their cats to cars, obscure diseases, dogs, assholes, general disappearing into thin air... Recently some person has been leaving snares around our suburb which is illegal but some pet cats have been caught in them. One didn't survive.
Save yourself some heart ache and expensive vet bills and keep it indoors (those outdoor cat runs seem pretty good).

Others have said things on litter and food I am fine agreeing with.

Scratching post - it doesn't matter if it's only simple, as long as there's a scratching option to keep the cat away from your furniture.
And on the subject of toys, a stick with a string (hat elastic is best) that has a few feathers at the other end is a wonderful idea that you can potentially make yourself, on the cheap. It is however a toy that needs you present to wave it around, but it's a great playtime when you're home.

Microchipping - I saw someone else recommend not bothering with a collar, so I heartily recommend a microchip, as soon as you can get it done.

Flea treatment - From my memories of my last cat, the type that is a liquid applied to the back of the neck are great. They not only kill off the fleas on the cat but eventually kill them off in the carpet too. It was a blessing for my mother who has a fleabite allergy. Just don't have the cat around anyone with such an allergy the first few days after applying the treatment as the fleas will still be alive and may jump all over the allergic person and result in pain and itchiness. This happened to Mum once with a friend's cat who stayed at our house a few days.

Pet health insurance - research it, consider getting it. If you do get it, you may be very glad of it if your cat has an accident it survives but is injured from.

Desexing - get both genders desexed young, before spraying or heat sets in. Vets can do it pretty damn young these days, so look into it as soon as you get the cat, if they're still a kitten. An adult may already be done.

Along with what's already been said, I'd like to add that it would be wonderful if you got a cat with a darker-colored coat, because they are the least likely to be adopted (as are dark-colored dogs). Do not fear black cats especially, they can be the sweetest furry hearts in the world.

Scratching post. Hell, get a cat tree. What most people don't realize is that most cats? Like to stretch when scratching, so they need something tall.

Also, don't just grab the first cat you think is cute. Spend a bit of time getting to know them. You'll know when you click with one. It's a magical feeling.

Talk to your vet about what services they offer for cats. Ours does nail trimmings for free so long as you call ahead.

Seconding the cat tree--climbing is good for them! Or at least a nice tall scratching post with a good big base so it doesn't tip. My William has a post that my dad made for him out of a 40 inch piece of PVC pipe (covered with sisal rope) and a 3 foot square piece of plywood (covered with coarse carpet). I rub it with wild catnip every now and then, and when William is tense he goes at it with all four feet.

Get the things you'll need first before you start visiting shelters. There's a lot of stuff that needs to get taken care of before you can adopt - if you rent, the shelter workers will want to contact your landlord, so that they can verify that you have permissible to bring a cat home, and if you own, then you'll need proof of ownership, like a water or electric bill. It sucks to find an animal that you love and not be able to take them home because your landlord wasn't picking up their phone.

Get the paperwork sorted out first, then start looking at the animals. Tell the adoption agents what sort of personality you're looking for - they can point you to ones that they think will be a good match. Personality can change a lot between the shelter and at home, so keep that in mind. It can help a lot to keep your cart confined to one or two rooms at first, until they can adjust to life in your house.

If you have any issues once you've adopted, don't be afraid to call up the shelter and ask for advice! Most shelters will be more than willing to work with adopters to make sure that everything is going smoothly. That being said, mismatches happen. Sometimes your home turns out not to be a good fit for your cart. If you've worked with the shelter to try and solve the issues and things are still bad, then the shelter should be willing to take the cat back and try to find them a new home. Obviously this isn't ideal, but it's also better than a cat slowly driving itself into a neurotic mess because it's living in a house that's ill-suited for it. (I fostered for one of my local shelters, and it didn't happen often, but every so often I'd get a cat that just was not a good match for my household and would have to work with the shelter to find a better solution.)

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